Showing posts with label help with women's fashion. Show all posts
Showing posts with label help with women's fashion. Show all posts

Where TF Are the Non-Hourglass Plus-Size Women?


http://amzn.to/2qSTCxfIt feels like every day there’s another body-positive headline in fashion—airbrush-free swimsuit campaigns, designer collaborations, New York Fashion Week’s record number of plus-size models—and while those stories represent major strides in size inclusion, there’s one thing that still bothers me: Almost every time we see a woman above a size 14 in magazines, in advertisements, or on the runway, she’s a perfect hourglass shape.
Think about the most famous plus-size models: They have big busts and full hips, with snatchedThis Is UsChrissy Metz and Pitch Perfect 3’s Rebel Wilson), the fashion world celebrates only perfect proportions—and thus implies that even though it may finally be OK to be above a size 14, your body still needs to have curves in all the right places. Because of that messaging, I’ve never felt like my own body was “right.” My size has always fluctuated between 12 and 16, but my shape is consistently larger on top with smaller hips—my shoulders are broad, and my breasts disproportionately large. Though I’m not exactly into equating women to fruit, I call myself strawberry-shaped.
waists and thin arms and legs. Gorgeous—but also, newsflash: That's not how most plus-size women look. Hell, all you need to do is look around on the street to know that many of us are rounder in the “wrong” places, with full faces and thicker limbs. If you listened in on a conversation among my plus-size blogger friends or spent an hour going down a
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Twitter rabbit hole, you’d learn we’re sick of seeing brands brag about being inclusive without accurately representing all our bodies. How progressive is body positivity if we’re affirming only one plus-size body type? While other industries like film and television show a wider range of women (think:
Eight years ago I started challenging the hourglass fashion norm through my blog (nicolettemason.com) and then my Insta­gram (@nicolettemason). While those platforms have been great sources of empowerment and a place where I can connect with fashion-minded women who look similar to me, I also get daily reminders of the bias that still exists. (As one follower recently posted, “You look like you’re going to topple over.”) And I can’t tell you how many times commenters have told me to wear a belt to cinch my waist! Is there any escaping the tyranny of the hourglass when I’m just trying to live my life and look cute?


I’m a self-loving 31-year-old woman, but the critique of my body still stings. Plus, the pervasive promotion of one ideal shape has practical effects: It means many plus-size women, like me, have a hard time finding clothes that match our style. While there’s a world of fashion-forward silhouettes for sizes 0 to 12, like straight-cut jeans and one-shoulder tops, the majority of styles for sizes 14-plus reinforce the hourglass archetype, like fit-and-flare dresses. Some of us want shift styles, oversize jackets, and culottes too!
But know that there is hope. Plus-size women are increasingly demanding better options.
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After extensive feedback from its customers, Eloquii has put resources toward making a range of cuts, like the “Viola” fit, which includes tops, pants, skirts, and dresses designed for women with hips much wider than their bust. “We heard so often that women with this shape can’t wear anything body-con or straight-​cut without the top being too large,” says Eloquii VP of design and creative director Jodi Arnold. “Or they were unable to find a blouse that fit through the shoulders without its being too tight around the hips.” More good news: A fit for fuller waists is coming within the next year. Universal Standard is also trying to tackle the one-size-does-not-fit-all dilemma, starting with its fit models. “We wanted someone who had an ample bust, waist, and bottom,” says cofounder and chief creative officer Alexandra Waldman, “so that we instantly see if there are issues in any of the fuller areas.”


And for Los Angeles–based brand Zelie for She, designer Elann Zelie also considers her own rounder shape. “Hourglass is just one body type,” she says. “When designers limit themselves to designing for that, they dismiss a group of potential customers. I used to make a lot of fit-and-flare styles, but with the oversize dresses and palazzo pants that I now make, people can adjust the garment to where their waistline lands.”
While brands catch on and make changes, I continue to find solutions for styling my proportions. I shop big to fit my bust and shoulders, then have a tailor nip in the hips of my clothes. I always have my Kate Spade leather jacket on hand (the cropped silhouette hits at my natural waist). And I’ve found off-the-rack brands, like ASOS and NYDJ, that work for my body. I’m proof that there’s more than one type of plus-size woman who loves fashion—and whether we’re a size 12 or 22, strawberry, or hell, any shape, we all deserve to be celebrated.
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Fashion Week:Why Fashion Purists Love Narciso Rodriguez

At most big-name fashion shows, there’s a clear social hierarchy among guests. The front row serves as a visual tip-sheet of who’s who and why they’re there: celebrity fans, retired models, top fashion editors, bloggers with brand recognition, and luxury retailers all get prime seating.
Needless to say, “standing” tickets are the lowest rungs on the hierarchical ladder, reserved for interns and interlopers.
Narciso Rodriguez Womens Cloque Silk Cut-Out Cocktail DressYou can tell a lot about a brand from its front row. Star wattage doesn’t always line up with industry respect, for instance. But a guest list stacked with celebs and fashion insiders, as it was at Raf Simons’s Calvin Klein debut, is a good indicator of both commercial success and industry renown.

Then there are big-name shows where the social order is more ambiguous. Take the mixed crowd at Phillipp Plein, where A-list stars (Madonna, Kylie Jenner) rubbed shoulders with the D-list ones (Paris Hilton), and a slew of seemingly wealthy, nameless peacockers joined them to be photographed by street style photographers—to see-and-be-seen and (hopefully) end up in Guest of a Guest party pictures the next day.
It was a mixed bag at Narciso Rodriguez on Tuesday night, too. Outside the show, a young man who claimed he was with the media outlet Russia Today wielded a mop-like microphone and asked guests what they were wearing. (Since when does Russia Today do fashion coverage?)
In recent seasons, the atmosphere at Rodriguez’s shows has been intimate and serene. It’s the only show this reporter has attended where people talk to each other in hushed tones both before and after the runway presentation.
Narciso Rodriguez Women's Sleeveless Dress Sarah Jessica Parker was chirping quietly to her seatmate in that girly, ageless voice of hers in the front row on Tuesday. She wore one of his washer-embroidered dresses from last season over a sheer black long sleeve tee and black stockings. Raf Simons, beloved Belgian designer whose debut show at Calvin Klein was the show to see this week, squeezed in next to her. They looked like old friends: No need for
pleasantries.
When two of the most long-adored people in Planet Fashion turn up to a show, you know it’s an important one—not the buzziest, necessarily, but one that is respected in the biz. Indeed, Rodriguez has been designing some of the most effortlessly chic women's wear for so long that his name is sometimes overshadowed by new hot tickets.
But fashion purists love Rodriguez. His clothes are pared down but exquisitely cut and styled. When other designers resort to gimmicks to stand out, Rodriguez remains a masterful minimalist.
That much was clear from his fall/winter collection, which opened with a black wool top with thin, horizontal cutouts on the chest and black wool trousers cropped above the ankle. The chest cutout was a recurring motif in the collection. (SJP pulled out her phone for a black, knee-length dress with cleavage-exposing cutouts.)
Metallic satin dresses that almost looked like liquid echoed pieces from last season. Streamlined jackets and trousers in burnt orange provided flashes of color. Tops with wing-like split sleeves that trailed behind models like streamers were at once simple and stunning.
The crowd was charmed and cheered Rodriguez when he came out at the end. There was no mad dash for the door, as there often is. Vogue staffers took their time walking out. Ken Downing, the fashion director at Neiman Marcus, whispered something to someone about needing sleep. It was day five of fashion week, after all, but everyone seemed blissed out as they left. Rodriguez’s shows have that effect on people.
Narciso Rodriguez by Lizzie Crocker

Women's Fashion Rules : How to Dress for a Semi-Formal Event

Semi-formal events mean higher hemlines on dresses and skirts. Create the perfect outfit with the help of a professional model in this free video.

Expert: Wendi Braswell

Contact: www.wendibraswell.com

Bio: Wendi Braswell is a former model and actress, with more than 25 years of experience working in the fashion industry.

Filmmaker: Christopher Rokosz

Series Description: Women's fashion changes rapidly, but these timeless rules still endure. Learn the secrets of women's fashion rules with the help of a former model in this free video series.

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